Interview – Munster, a family affair for the Louis!

Published on 27 March 2024

In Saint-Étienne-lès-Remiremont, Frédéric Louis passed the torch to his son Rémi last January. In the family since 1932, the Bruyères farm produces Munster AOP in organic farming. 300 meters away, in Dommartin, Bernard, Frédéric's brother, collects the family's white Munsters to refine them in his cellar. The two brothers tell us here about their daily life and their passion for this profession.

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Can you present your activity?

Frédéric: With our forty or so dairy cows, we produce milk that we process every morning in our own on-farm workshop. First, there's the white Munster cheese, which then goes to my brother's to age, but we also make plain or flavored Tomme des Vosges cheese. We practice organic farming, and our cows are fed with fodder produced on the farm. We also have Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status for our Munster cheese. Once it's back from my brother's cellars, we sell it on-site under the name "Le P'tit Noble."

Bernard: I'm a cheese refiner specializing in farm-made Munster AOP cheeses. I source the white Munster from three surrounding farms, including Les Bruyères farm, just 300 meters away. I refine these Munsters and sell them under the name "Le Louis," with all the characteristics of organic cheese but without the official designation. However, I give some of these refined Munsters to my brother, who has the official designation and can sell them as such. In 2020, I also developed a new type of cheese: Le Louis "d'Or"! Initially, it's the same white Munster. But during the refining process, it's moistened and rubbed much more to prevent it from developing too thick a rind. It's then placed in a spruce box and melted in the oven. This completely different refining process is what results in a beautiful melted cheese that doesn't harden.

 

How long have you been doing this activity?

Frédéric: Our grandfather came to Saint-Étienne-lès-Remiremont in 1932, our father took over after him, then me in 1991. Now my son Rémi is inheriting the farm. We've always produced cheese; it's never stopped since the beginning. We now only have one production run in the morning, which required us to expand the processing facility. But ultimately, if you look at the process itself, there aren't that many differences from what our parents were already doing. We also have a slightly different farm, because we can afford to have fewer animals. The volume of milk is lower because we process it ourselves; that's our added value.

Bernard: Initially, I wanted to go into teaching, but then I realized it wasn't for me. Our parents were always farmers and producers, but they didn't do the cheese aging themselves. So, in 1994, I set up my own business as a cheese ager. Today, in the Vosges region, there are only two of us who work exclusively in cheese aging.

 

What do you like most about your job?

Bernard: The contact with people is why I created the shop "Le Panier de Louis". It's also a very dynamic job; we sometimes have busy periods, like around Christmas, but I enjoy it. And above all, we do everything from start to finish: we go to the farms to collect the cheeses, which involves some handling and allows us to talk with the farmers; then we process the product and sell it, either in the shop or outside, so there's also a whole prospecting aspect to it.

Frédéric: On the farm, too, you have to take care of everything; it's anything but monotonous. You jump from one thing to another, so to speak! These days, you have to adapt to the workforce and the climate; there are many challenges. If you succeed, it's a good job.

 

Any advice for tasting Munster?

Bernard: I eat it at the end of a meal, with jam and sometimes wine. I really like sweet and savory combinations with fig or rosehip jam, or with a fruit like apple, pear, or grape: the taste is completely different then. Some people who don't usually like Munster cheese enjoy it thanks to these pairings! What I love about Munster is that depending on how you eat it and what you pair it with, the taste really changes. That means you can enjoy it all year round without ever getting tired of it!

 

 

Ferme Les Bruyères:

  • 193 chemin des Champs des Bruyères 88200 Saint-Étienne-lès-Remiremont
  • self-service shop, open from 6:30 a.m. to 20 p.m.

 

Louis’ Basket:

  • 2136 rue du Pont 88200 Dommartin-lès-Remiremont
  • Shop open Monday from 14 p.m. to 19 p.m., Tuesday to Thursday from 9 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. and 13:30 p.m. to 19 p.m., Friday from 9 a.m. to 19 p.m. and Saturday from 9 a.m. to 18:30 p.m.
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