Interview – Munster, a family affair for the Louis!
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Published on 27 March 2024
In Saint-Étienne-lès-Remiremont, Frédéric Louis passed the torch to his son Rémi last January. In the family since 1932, the Bruyères farm produces Munster AOP in organic farming. 300 meters away, in Dommartin, Bernard, Frédéric's brother, collects the family's white Munsters to refine them in his cellar. The two brothers tell us here about their daily life and their passion for this profession.
Can you present your activity?
Frederick: With our forty dairy cows, we produce milk which we process every morning in our own workshop on the farm. First there is the white Munster, which then goes to maturation at my brother's, but also the natural or flavored Tomme des Vosges. We work in Organic Farming, our cows are fed with fodder produced on the farm. We also have Protected Designation of Origin for Munster. Once the latter returned from my brother's cellars, we sold it on site, under the name "Le P'tit Noble".
Bernard: I am a refiner of AOP Munsters. I go looking for the white munsters in 3 surrounding farms, including the Bruyères farm 300m away. I refine these munsters and sell them under the name “Le Louis”, with all the characteristics of organic but without the name. On the other hand, I return some of his matured munsters to my brother who has the appellation and can sell them as such. In 2020, I also developed a new kind of cheese: Louis “d’Or”! Initially, it's the same white Munster. But during maturing, it is much wetter and rubbed to prevent it from forming too thick a crust. It is then placed in a spruce box and melted in the oven. It is this completely different maturation which allows us to obtain a beautiful melted cheese which does not harden.
How long have you been doing this activity?
Frederick: Our grandfather came to Saint-Étienne-lès-Remiremont in 1932, our father took over, then me in 1991. It is now my son Rémi who inherits the farm. We have always produced cheese, from the beginning it has never stopped. time: we only have one production in the morning, which required expanding the processing workshop. But ultimately, if we look at the process itself, there is not much difference from the one our parents already produced. We also have a slightly different farm, because we can afford to have fewer animals. The volume of milk is lower because we process it ourselves, this is our added value.
Bernard: Initially, I wanted to go into teaching, but then I realized that I wasn't cut out for it. Our parents were always farmers and producers, but they did not refine their own products. In 1994, I set up as an refiner. Today, in the Vosges, there are only 2 of us working exclusively on maturing.
What do you like most about your job?
Bernard: Contact with people is why I created the store “Le Panier de Louis”. It's also a very lively job, we sometimes get stuck like at Christmas time, but I like it. And above all, we do everything from A to Z: we pick up the cheeses from the farm, it's handling and it allows us to discuss with the farmers, we then transform the product and we sell it, either in the store or outdoors, there is also a whole part of prospecting.
Frederick: On the farm too, you have to take care of everything, it's absolutely not monotonous. We're jumping from the cock to the donkey so to speak! Today, we must succeed in adapting to the workforce and the climate, there are many challenges. If you can do it, it's a good job.
Any advice for tasting Munster?
Bernard: I eat it at the end of a meal, accompanied by jam and possibly wine. I really like sweet and sour with fig or rosehip jam, or with a fruit like apple, pear, grape: the taste is completely different. Some people who don't like Munster appreciate it thanks to these associations! What I like about Munster is that depending on how you eat it and accompany it, the taste will really evolve. This allows you to enjoy it all year round without ever getting tired of it!
Ferme Les Bruyères:
- 193 chemin des Champs des Bruyères 88200 Saint-Étienne-lès-Remiremont
- self-service shop, open from 6:30 a.m. to 20 p.m.
Louis’ Basket:
- 2136 rue du Pont 88200 Dommartin-lès-Remiremont
- Shop open Monday from 14 p.m. to 19 p.m., Tuesday to Thursday from 9 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. and 13:30 p.m. to 19 p.m., Friday from 9 a.m. to 19 p.m. and Saturday from 9 a.m. to 18:30 p.m.
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